[antonio.luongo12]

Good morning to the entire forum,
this morning I idea makes its way through your head .....
I have my old CarPC in the car that I want to replace with my LP 4G / 64Gb to reduce size, the current cd PC has been this:
1) HDMI Lilliput touch
2) Automitive ATX Power supply whit ignition and mainboard power switch for auto power on/off whitout flashing a bios
3) Intel Celeron 2020 4Gb Ram SSD 64GB SATA
4) Can-Bus to USB interface for steering wheel
5) GPS USB an Navigator Program
6) Bluetooth Handsfree
7) Centrafuse Fronted.
The first impression would seem feasible, apart from some problems such as the power on or reset to carry in parallel on the control panel, but I have some doubts:
1) There is the possibility of having in addition to the red LED an LED that indicates the activity (type HDD LED)?
2) if desired, and you can accelerate the phase of the bios post to accelerate the start-up?

Some of you have already tried to do so?

[Wendy.Hu]

Hi Sir,

Its sounds like a wonderful idea!
But as I know the carPC should be packaged well in the car, so how do you plan to connect to your LP? And how do you connect wifi to the LP?

It seems that I cant help you much on this, but I am very happy to hear your progress.

[antonio.luongo12]

Hello,
then for installation in cars think of creating a single case that contains everything you need, using the monitor and perhaps put them all creating a kind of all-in-one, or at least create a stand-alone homes to be placed behind the dashboard .
The power supply in my possession is an M2-ATX intelligent Automotive DC-DC Car PC Power Supply, below the specificehe:

- 160 watts output
- Ideal car Power supply for operating Core 2 Duo, Celeron, AMD systems
- ATX, 6-24V wide input range
- Intelligent shutdown controller
- ON / OFF motherboard control
- Survives vehicle engine cranks
- Battery deep discharge prevention
- High efficiency, 160 watts output
- "Anti-Thump" remote control Amplifier - fuse automotive 15A (mini-blade)

Maximum Power Characteristics
Output Rail Current (Max) Current Peak Regulation
5V 8A 10A 1.5%
8A 3.3V 10A 1.5%
5VSB 1.5A 2A 1.5%
-12V 0.15A 0.2A 5%
12V 8A 10A 2%

Total power = 169.9 Watts

in this way we solve the problem of firing events that the power supplies, power supply through the food LP with 5V 8A and with the same remote I manage the switch by connecting the power botton of the LP.
For wifi that of the home modem in the garage and on the move the hotspot of the phone or maybe an internet key for 4g
steering wheel controls have recovered them using an interface called CarPC JoyCon EXR that does nothing but collect the signals can directly from the connector of the steering and take them usb to interface to a PC or tablet windows / android
some specific:

hardware features
- Converts resistive steering wheel remote controls into USB HID keyboard
and HID remote controller.
- Works same as standard USB HID keyboard and HID remote controller by hardware.
- 24V tolerant 4 channel resistive (voltage) inputs.
- Supports 28 physical buttons, 52 programmable logical buttons.
- Long and Short button for one physical button, up to 5 simultaneous key strokes by one button.
- 2 programmable LED port.
- Remote Wake-up (PCs resume from sleep with steering wheel remote controls).
- Channel Master / Slave selectable
- Temperature range: -40 ~ + 85 ° C

JoyCon Explorer-aided feature
- Preset Preset switch by up and down buttons.
- Speech and OSD When preset is switched, When button is pressed.
- Application Link (application launches and pops up with preset switching).
- User definable Button Speech and OSD.
- Automatic Detection Button
- USB with Rearview Room
- Online firmware update.

- No external power or driver installation needs.
- Available OS: Windows 7, Vista, XP, 2003
(JoyCon Explorer supports Windows XP and the later version.
JoyCon Explorer does not support Linux, Mac. But CarPC JoyCon EXR works on Linux and Mac after it is configured at Windows.
JoyCon Explorer does not support Android devices. But CarPC JoyCon EXR works on Android devices from Android version 3.1 after it is configured at Windows. For example, Google Nexus 7, Samsung Galaxy S3, Galaxy Notes and Galaxy Tab 10.1. )

but i always remains the damn problem with the monitor lilliput, when i turn on the LP i do not see anything until Windows did not start, so i see all the startup and do not understand if there are errors or not, but if I use the TV i see everything perfectly . Has anyone had the same problem?

[Angelo]

Awesome project!
I'm not sure whether I can help you. Perhaps it is the driver problems?
How about update the driver for LILLIPUT?make_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, '
', 'http://www.driverscape.com/download/lilliput-usb-monitor', '', ' class="postlink"')

[antonio.luongo12]

Thanks for the compliment,
it seems to have solved the promblema the monitor by simply changing the HDMI input DVI always keeping connected the LP to the monitor via HDMI cable.
Now I am trying to solve some other problem, I replaced the S.O. with Win10 Professional x64 and I have a wifi card that does not start in device management appears triangle me with the "Unable to start the device (code 10)" I tried to restore the original system and everything works perfectly is that wifi bluetooth, but when I switch from Home to Professional I was born this problem and I would also like to see the data from analogue sensors, the ones with the white connector to speak, and view them in my Centrafuse program but do not know how to do .....
I have another question, if reprogram (I have the usb programmer with clips to attach the flash directly) the bios of my enanched 64 bits with that of 32-bit is going to burn LP or simply will not start?

[Angelo]

Haha, it is a smart idea.
Actually I'm not an expert on LattePanda. However, I would recommend you go to the LattePanda official forum for more details about this product. You can get contact with other guys that make a car modification like you. I'm sure my college can certainly provide you better support.
Here is the link.make_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, '
', 'http://www.lattepanda.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=11', '', ' class="postlink"')

[antonio.luongo12]

Angelo Hello and thanks for the advice, but I confess that I have already written on the LP official forum for bios problem, I got the answer with several days late, leaving me a bit disappointed, I also noticed that the discussions are still on CarPC for a while and this lets me think that many people are committed to the idea and make it happen, but no one wants to share experience .....
I still continue to achieve it and share it here and on other forums ...

[SNOtwistR]

I have my setup good to go. 64/4 latte panda, bios update for auto boot, power switch removal and replaced with remote switch, 4 port hub, gps, FM radio, 4channel 50w amp, powered by CTP 12v-5v PS. running a frontend called Driveline. All in a by-byte double din case. I have documented my work-log on my forum devoted to the CarPC scene. If you need any help or info just ask or pop by and register on the board.('http://driveline.boards.net') SNO
('http://www.drivelinepc.com/Images/inside2.jpg')
('http://www.drivelinepc.com/Images/gpsinsidehub.jpg')
('http://www.drivelinepc.com/Images/alive1.jpg')

[Angelo]

Oh, sorry Antonio. I've helped you complain about your experience to my colleague.
However please understand, they are only a small team. However they will keep their best on tech support.

[antonio.luongo12]

hi SNOtwistR i'm happy to see someone with my passion , I have seen the site that you reported to me, but as fronted Driveline do not know this, but just be downloading it at home to try it, thanks for the advice. Excuse me but you who have used radio module, I have a usb silabs that with Centrafuse integrates well, but it is the only one that works there ...
my sound system I have potutoi add in houses because my car does not provide radio two din and more do not enter it is a great little:
1) DSP Audison Bit ONE make_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, '(', 'http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=91', '', ' class="postlink"'))
2) Amplifier Audison AV 5.1 with AV bit HD make_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, '(', 'http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=46', '', ' class="postlink"'))
3) Speakers kit Audison Voce AV K6 with crossover in front and Audison K5 doors in the rear doors (differ only in the sizemake_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, ' ', 'http://www.audison.eu/index.php?page=product&id=38', '', ' class="postlink"')).
All managed by a Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 make_clickable_callback(MAGIC_URL_FULL, '(', 'https://us.focusrite.com/usb-audio-interfaces/scarlett-18i8', '', ' class="postlink"')) connected in usb to the pc and Optical Bit DSP to ONE and the latter in digital amplifier with two ethernet CAT 6 S-FTP cables I recently replaced with CAT 7 S-FTP, all powered by 1 cable unipolar section 16 mm and filtered by a capacitor of 1.5 Farad.
4) subwoofer Hertz HBX 25, cone 25" 800 W max boxed with bass reflex system
All speakers were wired with shielded bipolar cables from 2.5 mm2, and the subwoofer is powered by two unipolarii cables 6 mm2.
Angelo, technical support will also be composed of a small suqadra, but at least one answer to a buyer that after buying a card is left with a non-functioning electronic wafers ....
however, I will have to rewrite with tech support because I would like to integrate the LP in the car so radical if I can and I have to solve some problems, such as the active fan shutdown and other stuff ...
I started to integrate it all but I wanted to ask if anyone knew how to read the information from the sensors present on board, those with white connectors, I wish I could see in fronted the various sensor data such as that will connect the engine and turbocharger pressure other.
As for the Arduino section I read that you have to load a specific schedule and make visual studio for èassare the information in windows, it's the same for the sensors?
In'ultimo but not least I had thought to use the 1.8V pin of U1 zone, that of the atom CPU so to speak, and keep us in a transistor switch system to control the various lines of power supplies and fans.
I thought of something with transistors for not overloading the line to damage something, perhaps before the transistor will insert decoupling or optocoupler to avoid unpleasant return on the card, what do you think?

Ps sorry for the bad English but i'm Italian and help me with a translator